This is another in a series of ongoing “reports” from the tour that I am on now, the 2008 Chicago Blues Festival Tour featuring Andrew “Jr. Boy” Jones, DC Bellamy, Shakura S’aida, Ken Saydak, Willie Hayes and Russell Jackson. The posts are often a day or two late due to the brutality of the schedule and the unavailability of internet connection in some areas of travel. Tough. Live with it.
I have yet to write two new posts on the same day during this trip, but I saw a couple of things today which merit comment. I took a walk along the sea, an aimless journey to enjoy the sights, smells and sounds of the Mediterranean coast. Tomorrow morning we leave for Paris and this was the last opportunity to do that. I wandered down a narrow boulevard (no, that’s not an oxymoron, that’s Monaco) between towering buildings, old and new, which house condos and apartments. I finally found a staircase which took me down to the waterfront. I walked until I found a beach with public access, very limited areas in this tiny town. The shoreline was one of well-worn pebbles, and I decided to stop and sit for a while, watching and listening as the waves rushed first to shore and then away again. As I sat alone in the quiet, an elderly couple approached, people well into their seventies. The woman was dressed stylishly, calf length leather boots (mandatory Monaco footwear), beret tilted fashionably to one side, a black cloth coat with a fur collar which was buttoned up to the top against the December chill. It was an overcast day and in spite of the palms swaying in the gentle breeze and tropical foliage all around, this is still winter. The man was dressed in baggy slacks and just a wool sweater and carried a plastic shopping bag. They carefully stepped down among the stones, walking as people do when the confident strides of their youth are just a memory, and found a perch on a couple of boulders which formed the perimeter of the beach. After a few moments of conversation, the man shed his clothes, revealing a pair of baggy shorts, donned a pair of swimming goggles and proceeded to enter the water. He moved forward until the water was knee-deep, and then dove in and began to do an amazingly graceful Australian crawl. I watched as he slowly but steadily swam off into the distance. All the while, his companion, whom I assumed was his wife, sat inattentive to his actions, talking in French on her cell phone. I looked around the beach for some shells (no luck there) and when I returned my gaze to the water, he was gone. I decided to wait a while to see if he appeared again. The woman was so unconcerned that I began to fantasize that their brief conversation had been a farewell and he had swum off to his final resting place beneath the waves, leaving his wife to call friends and begin making arrangements for his memorial. About a minute later, he reappeared, now doing an impressive backstroke. Despite his fragile appearance, this guy was in some kind of shape. I wondered if this was a daily or weekly routine for them, a ritual which was now part of their lives in retirement. I bid the woman a bon jour and moved on.
I came, a while later, to a large concrete wall where I found a solitary fisherman. About forty years old, he was wearing what appeared to be a fireman’s coat and was wielding an extremely long rod with an oversized saltwater reel. He was jigging among the rocks some twenty-five feet below him, and as he raised his bait out of the water, I could see that he was using a large squid-like rubber jig whose tentacles hid the hook. He let the bait down into the waves again, balanced his rod on the top of the wall on which he stood, and took out a slender loaf of bread. He held the loaf against the concrete and began to slice. Lunchtime, I assumed. Wrong. When he finished cutting the loaf into four-inch long slices, he again picked up the rod and hoisted his bait up and grabbed on to the jig. He then removed his artificial bait and carefully tied one of the bread slices on the end of his line, burying the hook beneath the crust. I have heard of dough bait for catfish and carp, but French bread as bait? Only in southern Europe. I figured he was trying to lure some crustacean to grab the bread and hold on, as they will do, unaware that their greed is leading them into a mayonnaise bath. The peripatetic baguette again rears its crusty head.
On a final note, I had to go down to the local police station to bail out Darnell from the gendarme’s custody. You see, the streets here are lined with Tangerine trees, all loaded with Clementines in various stages of ripeness. I have not seen one person pick one single piece of fruit from these trees. That is until Darnell hit town. It seems he had taken a shopping bag to the boulevard and began loading it up to the dismay of the incredulous passersby. Apparently someone took extreme exception to this practice, summoned a cop, and Darnell ended up in custody until he could come up with the fine. So for a bag of oranges that he could have bought at the Super Marche for a couple of bucks, I’m out fifty Euros. What a hopeless jerk. This is his last road trip.